The Nelson Shipyard and the English Port
The fastest way to reach the southeast coast, and the Nelson’s Dockyard National Park (open daily, entrance fee), is through the highway that takes to All Saints. After leaving behind this place, you’ll find Liberta, a village whose name reminds the first slaves that established here, after being granted their freedom by the British in 1834. From Liberta, a walk of half an hour, will take you to the ruins of Great George Fort, a fort built on top of the Monk hill. From the fort, you can see the white sails of the boats at the port of Falmouth. Protected by a harbor, the English Harbor was declared National Park in 1985. The benefits of this shielded natural port were already known in 1671, because at that time, together with Falmouth, offered a perfect place to keep the English Navy ships safe from the tropical storms, that caused so much damage at other ports of the West Indies. Completely hidden from naval enemies, the shipyard was a safe place to repair ships. At the Admiral’s House, Admirals Hood and Rodney were guests on many occasions, during their battles against France at the end of the XVIII century. Between 1784 and 1787, a young Horatio Nelson, at the helm of HMS Boreas was based here.

This old navy base has been transformed in a picturesque yacht dock. The old warehouses and powder horns have being restored, and now there is a museum, some romantic restaurants and nostalgic hotels. Two of them are, the Admiral’s Inn and the Copper and Lumber Store, two wonderfully restored buildings that were constructed with bricks that British ships used as dead weight. This lively corner shines brightly during the great regattas, as the Antigua Sailing Week, when bars and restaurants like the Colombo’s, the Deck and the Galley close their doors very late, and dancing lasts until dawn.

Shirley Heights, a Useful Lookout
Behind the port rises a hill, where the ruins of Shirley Heights, an ancient defensive port, still remains. At the foothill is Clarence House, a Georgian style house, built to host Prince William, Duke of Clarence, when he was sent to Antigua, in 1787, as captain of the HMS Pegasus. Is a colonial building with beautiful balconies and window shutters; at present, is the guests house of the Antigua Government, though their rooms, decorated with lots of antiques, can be visited; when the Governor is absent, it’s open to public (free entrance, though tips are not a bad idea).

From Shirley Heights, there is a splendid view of 360°. In 178l, Governor Thomas Shirley ordered the construction of a fort to protect the port. On a clear day, you can watch the island of Montserrat, 45 km. southwest, and Guadeloupe, 64 km. south. The lookout and the restaurant next to it are known as The Lookout, and each Saturday stages a barbecue animated with steel bands and reggae groups.

The so feared French attack, for which purpose this fortress was built, never materialized, and most of the soldiers died at English Harbor, as a consequence of tropical diseases. A road takes from the lookout to the graveyard, where they are buried. The ruins of various barracks, barns and water cisterns, allow us to imagine the harsh life these soldiers experienced. At the feet of the fort is Galleon Beach, where you can only go by car or water taxi, from English Harbor.

Green Hills and Fine Sand Beaches
Just north of Liberta, you can take Fig Tree Drive, the most spectacular highway in the island. Fig is the name the islanders give to banana. This road goes through a mountainous zone of Antigua, where the landscape is full of wild bananas, as well as some huge trees, suggesting, more or less, the way the tropical jungle was, before the British colonists, cut them down, to plant sugar cane. In Old Road, the highway goes north, without separating from the coast. Furthermore, you’ll see the silhouette of Boggy Peak, the biggest in Antigua, 402m. high. Here you will find two of the best beaches in Antigua, Carlisle Bay, in Old Road, and Darkwood Beach, 8 km. up the road. Both are very quiet and have restaurants and bars, for a pleasant stop. Surprisingly, there are not too many visitors around, if you compare with the permanent noise of Jolly Beach, and the port, with the same name, next to it. This beach is part of Club Antigua, the major tourist center of the island. Some 8 km. ahead is St. John’s.