The Nelson Era
Away from the capital, life is even more peaceful, and the 93 square km. of the island still have a strong rural nature. From Charlestown, a highway going east to the inner lands, will soon take you to the ruins of a famous ancient hotel, the Bath Hotel (open from Monday to Friday, entrance fee), built in 1778, to host the most selected people of the time, who used to go there to swim, and benefit from the thermal waters of a not to distant spring. There is also a spa, now closed due to restoration, which is one of the oldest in the Caribbean. One of the most famous guests was Admiral Nelson, who in 1786 married Fanny Nisbet, a widow from the island’s high society. The Nelson Museum (open from Monday to Friday, Saturday mornings, entrance fee) conserves plenty of documents and antics from the British Admiral. About 3 km. forward is St. John’s Fig Tree Church, where you can still see Nelson’s marriage certificate, more than 300 years old. Built in 1680, has been restored twice along the centuries. At present, its cemetery still fascinates visitors.

The road continues east, trough beautiful fields and rubber trees, and starts bordering Nevis Peak. Many paths, ideal for excursionists, cross the exuberant woods covering the hillsides of the mountain. A detour to the right, takes you to the Montpelier Great House, and old plantation mansion, where the wedding of Nelson and Fanny took place. In the 1960’s, an elegant colonial style hotel was built here, and since then has hosted such illustrious personalities, as the late princess Diana of Wales. Many of the old plantations were transformed into magnificent hotels, where you still can breathe the atmosphere of the golden days, surrounded by charming gardens.

If you believe in ghosts, you should visit Eden Brown Estate (open daily, free entrance), also known as the bewitched house of Nevis. It is said, that between its ruins, wanders the spirit of a disconsolate widow, whose fiancé lost his life in a duel in the eve of his wedding. The bride passed the rest of her days confined in the mansion that was closed after her death. Some natives are sure of having heard the mournful cry of the woman.

Hidden Beaches
From Gingerland, a narrow road takes you, through an exuberant and beautiful landscape, to the remote beaches of White Bay, on the Atlantic southeast coast. The swollen sea here is risky, though in quieter days is excellent for windsurfing.

On the north and west coasts, there are many white sand beaches bordered by palm trees and mangos, usually deserted. These are ideal places to relax, like Robinson Crusoe, and contemplate humming birds flying between the wild orchids. The quiet waters of the Caribbean are here light blue, and are ideal for snorkeling and nautical sports. Many believe that in Nisbet Plantation Beach Club, near Newcastle, is the best beach in Nevis. In front of the restored XVIII century mansion, is a wide white sandy strip surrounded by cocoa-trees, which seems tailor made for lovers. At sunset, a breeze shakes the palm trees. The moon reflects on the dark waters, and the sea foam sparkles with a phosphorescent luminosity.

Horatio and Fanny
Horatio Nelson arrived to the Caribbean in 1784, as captain of the HMS Boreas. His mission was to put and end to the illegal commercial activities in the island. When the US colonies sealed their independence from Great Britain, the ships from the new country were forbidden to trade with any British colony. The embargo of the goods transported by four American merchant vessels that had arrived secretly to Nevis, provoked the anger of the local traders, and Nelson had to take refuge in his ship for eight weeks.

Nevis was living, at that time, the days of maximum splendor, and the charismatic personality of the Admiral, and his close friendship with Prince William, who lived for some time in Antigua, before being crowned King of England, opened the doors of Nevis high society to Nelson. His presence at parties taking place at the island’s mansions, become customary, and soon he was spotted in the company of Fanny Nisbet, an attractive young widow of the high society.

Horatio and Fanny married in March 1787, and Prince William wrote: ”Poor Nelson is madly in love”. On March 12 (actually it was the eleventh), he married miss Nisbet and I, my Lord, had the honor of taking the bride to the altar”