To the Mountains of Basse-Terre
Basse-Terre, the western wing of the island, with the shape of a butterfly, is a region of green mountains. If you leave Point-à-Pitre by the N1, 8 km. far away, you’ll find the Route de la Traversée, a 24 km. highway that goes through the spectacular Parc National de la Guadeloupe, a national park of 30,000 ha. By this highway, were huge ferns, red flowers flamboyants, and endless plants and tropical trees grow, you’ll find at halfway the Maison de la Forêt (open daily, free entrance), an information center, where you will be provided with maps of the well signaled paths of the park. Some of the routes can be walked in only twenty minutes, as is the case of the one taking you to the beautiful Cascade de l’Écrevisse (cascade of the river crabs). Others are larger, as the so-called Pigeon Trail (doves route), which can be completed in around three hours. The highway finally reaches the west coast at Mahaut, where you can take the N2, that going north will take you, after 6 km., to Pointe Noire, where is the Maison du Bois (house of the Wood, open daily, entrance fee), that hosts a museum showing the use of wood in the elaboration of all kinds of furniture. To the south, the N2 takes to Malendure; from its dark sand beach depart ships that go to the Îlets Pigeon, isles surrounding the Reserve Cousteau, a submarine park.

The N2 goes along the coast for 26 km. to reach Basse-Terre, the administrative capital of the department of Guadeloupe. This city lives in the shadow of the smoking volcano of La Soufrière that since 1976, when inhabitants had to be evacuated, remains calm. Basse-Terre was founded in 1634, and currently offers visitors the opportunity of walking by the narrow streets and small squares, where colonial buildings, keeping some of their past charm, emerge. South of the city are the ruins of an impressive fortress dating from the XVII century.

From the city, many highways climb up to the volcano’s hillsides, across exuberant vegetation. One of them, narrow and steep, leads to the elegant town of St Claude, 6 km. from the capital, where the Maison du Volcan is (open from Tuesday to Sunday, close at noon, free entrance), a museum dedicated to explore the volcano’s mystery, and from which you can follow several routes with splendid views. The highway keeps climbing by the western hillside of the volcano, and ends in a parking zone, next to several fumes.

Excursions to the Islands
From Trois-Rivières, in the south coast of the volcano, each two days ferries depart to Les Saintes, where, in 1872, the British Admiral Rodney defeated the French fleet, in the battle of The Saints, thus, frustrating the attack planned against Jamaica. From this archipelago of eight islands, only Terre-de-Haut and Terre-de- Bas are inhabited. Their few natives are mainly descendants of the ancient Breton pirates that used to maraud these waters. Currently, they dedicate to fishing; fishermen are easily detected, as they use wide hats called salakos.

From Pointe-à-Pitre, two ships depart daily to Les Saintes, and three to Marie-Galante, a circular island of 155 square km. that Columbus named after his own ship, Santa Maria, and that is bordered by many white sand beaches. At Anse Canot, in the north coast, you’ll find some beautiful remote coves. The island is full of plantation ruins, but sugar remains the most important product of the island, alongside the rum.

The islands of Guadeloupe are a natural paradise. However, so much beauty makes visitors overlook their fascinating history, and their hospitable inhabitants.

The Silent World of Cousteau
When Jacques-Yves Cousteau (19l0-1997) was shooting, in 1955, his awarded film “Le Monde du Silence” in the Pigeon islands, discovered what he considered one of the best places in the world, to practice diving. He was so enthusiastic about it that created the Reserve Cousteau, a submarine park of 300 ha. around these little islands located in front of the coast of Malendure, west of Basse-Terre. The key to explain why this place is lovelier than others in the Caribbean, are the volcanic springs in the depths of the sea that have created a special ecosystem where a huge variety of species live. The coral woods, and the ample colonies of sea sponges, with violet, yellow, red and green colors, are the perfect refuge for a wide diversity of fishes, with all the colors, forms and sizes, you can imagine. The gorgonians vibrate in the depths of the quiet and transparent waters (visibility is still perfect at 20 and 40m deep), with a temperature around 28°C.

At Malendure there are many submarine centers, where professional instructors give training, and where you can rent all the equipment necessary to enjoy this fascinating submarine landscape. Here you will also find many boats with transparent crystal floors.