The Creation of a New Culture

The Creation of a New Culture
Though Barbados has, since 1966, its own political identity, the truth is that forming a national cultural identity has taken much more time. Next to the African legacy, that arrived through the slaves, live on the island, lots of British traditions that stamp a conservative way of life to the islanders.

One of the major influences comes from American television and music.
Currently, after more than thirty years since
Barbados became free, it can be said that it has its own culture and identity. The islanders are proud of the island, and there is a movement trying to maintain alive some popular traditions, that were on the brink of disappearance. As proof, there is the enthusiasm to stage in Barbados, between July and August, the so-called Crop Over Festival. During three weeks, jubilant islanders celebrate the end of the sugar harvest. The capital streets are full of stands with food, dances, parades, as well as calypso bands challenging each other. This is the most joyful festival of the many that take place here, like the festival jazz in May, among others.

Bridgetown, a Contrasting City
In Bridgetown, the noisy capital of Barbados, contrasts characterizing the island, are more obvious than in the rest of the country. Next to the duty free shops, selling fashionable articles, you can see a rasta carrying coconuts on a wooden wagon, or country women sitting next to their stands, with fruits and vegetables produced in their own orchards.

The old slovenly colonial buildings stand next to luxurious office blocks, and from the cafes of the alleys, comes out the calypso music that clients choose at the juke boxes.

The first British pioneers that arrived to the island, established here, that at the time was a little bit more than a swamp, where they found a bridge built by the Arawaks, which gives its name to the city. At the mouth of the river, the first port of the city was built, called Careenage, where ships were put aside, for reparations. Now, two bridges cross the river, the Charles O’Neal Bridge and the Chamberlain Bridge that in the past was opened to allow the ships go through. The old warehouses standing in the south shore, are being restored, and transformed in shops and cafes, like the Waterfront Café, a great place to relax and watch the sea and the noise of the city, during the day, and dancing at night with the music of a jazz orchestra. The Careenage, that was once the commercial center of the island, is now a dock for fashionable sailboats, catamarans and yachts.

Nelson, a Controvetial Monument
Between the two bridges, is Independence Square, a parking place during the day, and place of gathering at nights. Politicians use to choose this square for meetings. Crossing by the Chamberlain Bridge, you’ll find, face to face, with the bronze statue of Admiral Nelson, standing properly, at the Trafalgar Square. Erected in 1813 (17 years earlier than the one in London), in the middle of a patriotic wave, after the Admiral’s death. However, since 1833, a statue has become a polemic monument, because some consider it a symbol of the old colonial times, and would rather prefer some native hero in that place.

Behind the square, are the Public Buildings, Victorian gothic structures, built in the 1870’s decade, to host the Parliament, an institution that already was operating since 1639, which makes it the third oldest of the Commonwealth.

At the beginning of Broad Street, northeast of the square, you’ll find the Verandah Art Gallery (open from Monday to Friday; Saturday mornings; free entrance), an art gallery exposing works by local artists, and that you can buy for reasonable prices. In the lower floor, is a shop where some women sell their own special guava gelatin, and hot red peppers sauce.

Broad Street is the main commercial street of the capital, and there you can find several duty free shops. Many of the buildings, like the Barclays Bank, and the Da Costa’s, maintain untouched, their colonial splendor. At the end of the street is St Mary’s Church (open daily; donations are accepted), a Georgian church, used as refuge when hurricanes come. In front is Cheapside Market, a market full with the typical Caribbean animation and color, every Saturday morning.

Walking west by the maritime boulevard, you’ll reach Pelican Village, a complex of handicraft shops, boutiques, souvenir shops, cafes and art galleries, much visited by the passengers of the cruisers that dock at the near Deep Water Harbor. Before these docks were built in 1961, passengers and load were transported in small boats. Now, cruisers take to the island, each year, more than half a million visitors.

Back to Trafalgar Square, go east, and you’ll arrive soon to St. Michael’s Cathedral (open daily; donations are accepted). In 1780, a hurricane destroyed the original structure, constructed in 1665. However, nine years later, the cathedral was built again with sound walls of limestone. Inside is a peculiar clock with only one pointer. Walking some few blocks to the east, you’ll reach Queen’s Park, inside which is Queen’s Park House, a colonial house dating from 1780. This precious Georgian building, with an impressive wooden balcony, hosts a small theater, where typical Antillean plays are represented, besides an art gallery that organize exhibitions dedicated to local artists.

The Cricket Passion
In Barbados, cricket is more than a sport. The passion of the islanders for this sport, reaches its climax, when the West Indies national team faces the English team, their former conquerors.

Matches are played at the Kensington Oval, the cricket cathedral in Barbados. During five days, the ground terraces are filled with fans of both teams, because many Englishmen come from Britain for this occasion. The West Indies inhabitants receive the visitors with open arms, inviting them to share their picnics, and to participate of the festive mood. One of the most heard sentences in these dates is: “We have to win, but if we loose, we all are going to have a lot of fun”.

Someone once compared cricket with abstract art, because you can only understand it, after having watched it for a long time. This sport arrived to the island with the British, more than 200 years ago. Since then, Barbados has produced some cricket greats; in the 1960’s three players known as “the three W” were outstanding: Clyde Walcott, Frank Worrell and Everton Weekes. Other heroes are Gordon Greenidge and Desmond Haynes. But overall out stands Garfield “Gary” Sobers, who was knighted in 1975 by Great Britain, in recognition of his incredible career.

 

 

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