Saba is a little volcanic island emerging from the crystalline Caribbean and Atlantic waters. The spectacular mountain landscapes match the fascinating submarine world around

There are no white sand beaches at the Dutch island of Saba, because it is really, the peak of a volcano extinguished thousands of years ago, and that emerges abruptly from the tropical sea, reaching its higher point in Mount Scenery, with the top almost always clouded, and located at 870m. over sea level. In this islands are 13 square km of craggy mountains, where a great number of sea birds live, and with small red roof houses on the hillside. At one time, the small mountain villages of Saba were connected, only, by some hundred steps. The population, around 1,200 people, half  white skin, and the other half dark, speak English, though Dutch is still the official language.

Like at St. Barths, 50 km. northeast, to land in Saba is a terrific experience. The pilot drives the plane straight towards a rocky wall, and in the last moment, just when you are fearing the worst, turns abruptly to the left, and seconds later descends suddenly to land on a track with the size of an aircraft carrier (398 m). When the little plane stops, the ten passengers on board feel relieved. The delicate maneuver required for landing, makes that the Saba airport, built in 1963, is open only in the days when trade winds are not too strong.

Cast away
Christopher Columbus discovered Saba in 1493. However, it was not inhabited till 1632, when two English cast away sailors, were the first Europeans on this island. Years later, some Dutch pioneers arrived from St. Eustatius, 27 km southeast, surviving the huge waves bursting against the coast reefs. During a long period, Spaniards, French, English and Dutch, contended to control the island, that changed hands twelve times, until in 1812, the Dutch took definite control. Actually, the islanders have no intention of separating from the metropolis.

In a coast full of craggy cliffs, Fort Bay is the only place where ships can enter. This harbor, more or less low for natives, does not has the infrastructure of a normal port. Before this boulevard was built, in 1972, people coming down from the ships, were transported to the coast in a little oar boat. In 1947, a jeep was the first car to come to Saba; two fishing boats, forming a raft, were used to transport it. At present, many excursionists arrive from St. Maarten, 45 km. north, after an hour sailing on board of a high-speed ferry.

The first part of the road going from Fort Bay to the airport, through the rough geography of the island, was outlined in 1943 by Josephus Lambert Hassell, a Dutch carpenter that studied engineering by mail, and challenged all the engineers that assured that a highway in Saba was impossible.

Going Up from the Bottom
Located at 250m. over sea level is the town of The Bottom. The name comes from the Dutch word botte that means hollow, because the town is in a valley surrounded by mountains. With only 500 people, in this village is a building, home of the Government of the island, as well as the hospital, school, bars and the Cranstons Antique Inn that in 1830, became the first guest house of Saba.

The road goes towards the colorful village of Windwardside, 900 steps higher, a place whose construction ended just in 1951. No matter their souvenir shops, and some hotel and family restaurant, this village, the second largest in the island, is still a romantic corner, surrounded by the exuberant beauty of the misty Mount Scenery and Bobby Hill.

Their little wooden houses enhance the beauty of the place; with their white walls and red roofs, are built to receive the rain drops (there are no rivers in Saba). What, at first sight, seems to be a family crypt, built in the gardens of the houses, is really a cistern, vital for survival here. Maybe next to some cistern, you’ll find a grave, because in little Saba, there is no room for graveyards.

An old building, built in 1840 by a ship captain, hosts the Saba Museum (open from Monday to Friday; closed from 12:00 to 13:00 h .-entrance fee-).

This museum maintains the original decoration, including the old kitchen, since the place was the captain’s home. A wall covered by documents and certificates from the original owner, shows the close link that has always existed, between the sea and the inhabitants, dedicated, for centuries, to fishing and sailing. Is the case of a sailor from Saba that in exchange for some gold, secretly transported a group of French fugitives, from Guyana to Trinidad.

Nearby you’ll find Captain’s Quarters, a building constructed in 1832, by the same captain, and that after careful restoration, is now an elegant hotel. From the porches and port’s bar, you can enjoy the beautiful view of the sea, 550m. lower. In the quiet terrace, the sun rays filtrate through the mangos and carob trees growing in the garden.

Scouting in the Misty Park
You don’t have to wait for a sunny day to start climbing Mount Scenery. Only in rare occasions the mist vanishes. You don’t’ have to be an expert, but you will need a good pair of shoes to climb the 1064 stone steps that take you to the top of Mount Scenery.

You can see alligators on the first part of the route; as you are climbing, you’ll notice that vegetation around is each time more exuberant; the road is covered by huge leafs, and the mist is thicker. Just before reaching the top, you’ll watch the telecommunications antenna that was brought by helicopter, at the top, there’s a strong wind blowing through the trees and the metallic structure.

There are many other charming paths on the island. Near Ladder Bay, the new National Park, opened in 1999, offers lots of trekking routes.

Volcanic Submarine Landscapes
Do your hands get cold when you dive 15m? Don’t worry, at Hot Springs, divers can place their hands on hot sand. In 1987, the Saba Marine Park was founded to preserve and administer the sea resources of the island. Divers will find here an amazing volcanic view, where all kinds of marine creatures live in. For a reasonable price, diving schools and tour organizations from St Maarten, will allow to enjoy this unique experience. By ship you can go into one of the 26 submarine places in Saba. The depths of the sea hide wonderful corners, like Tent Reef Wall, a submarine wall with incrustations of corals and sponges. An old submarine volcano rises at only 30m deep in Third Encounter. In the western coast waters, a coral column, called Needle’s Eye, has being growing, for thousands of years, with sponge colonies, starfish and the so called brain corals.