In contrast with the arid cactus lands, waters surrounding Bonaire hide a fascinating submarine world, full of spectacular landscapes that will delight scuba divers (map)

Watched from the air, the small island of Bonaire, looks like a boomerang that landed over the almost unending blue of the Caribbean. The arid lands hardly emerge some meters over the sea level, because Bonaire, is really the top of a submarine mountain. Most of its charms are hidden under the sea, in the fantastic submarine landscapes of Bonaire Marine Park. The capital, Kralendijk, is a little more than a quiet and picturesque town. Other interesting places are the Washington-Slagbaai National Park, a desert where lots of cactus grow, and the salt pits of Pekelmeer, where a colony of 10,000 flamingos live.

In 1634, the Dutch established a small military base over a coral dike, the Kralendijk, in the west coast. The first colonists dedicated to cattle rising; after being sacrificed, the animals were loaded on ships at Slagbaai (killing harbor) to be sold at the market in Willemstad, Curacao. In the XVII century, the Dutch West Indies Company was the first to evaporate the sea water from the ponds, a cheap method to obtain salt that at that time was very important for preserving meat and fish. This hard work was made by the so-called “government slaves”, that were obliged to work under an extremely hot sun. Now, the salt elaborated at the Pekelmeer salt pits, is still one of the main exportations of the island. However, for the last 35 years, the boom of the tourism industry has made it the major income source of Bonaire.

Compared with the other Caribbean islands, Bonaire is taking ecological tourism very seriously. People are very sensitive on this subject. Nature conserves all its purity, in this island of 14,000 people, around a 288 sq. km. territory, that apart from an oil deposit, has no other industry. The only species threatened by extinction is the shell spider, a marine snail shell with a pink shell that is sold, as souvenir. You can taste it at the island’s restaurants, appearing at the menu as lambi.

A Happy and Hospitable Capital
Rush and agitation are unknown in Kralendijk, the quiet capital of Bonaire. All public buildings line up along a couple of streets that run parallel to the sea. There you’ll find most of the hotels and restaurants, as well as some boarding houses offering rooms at a very cheap price, where usually go young scuba diving fans. At the Kaya Grandi, some buildings painted with different colors, and coral mosaics, give the city an unmistakable tropical atmosphere. Besides, the maritime boulevard next to the small port is an excellent place to contemplate the beautiful sunset.

In this small city, you will not need even a map to find the interesting places. Next to the cruisers dock is Little Fort Oranje, a fort built in the XVII century. Next to it stands the tower of a lighthouse dating back to 1932. In the Queen Wilhelmina Square, in the middle of the city, is a simple Presbyterian church built in 1847, apart of many municipal buildings, neo classic style. The ancient Governor’s residence called Pasangrahan, is an elegant mixture of Indonesian and Caribbean architectonic styles.

At the market next to the maritime boulevard, whose structure reminds that of the Ancient Greece, Venezuelan traders sell fresh fish, apart from fruits, and tropical vegetables. The best sights of the city are from the Karel Beach Bar, or the terraces of the restaurants next to the port. Only the arrival of a cruiser, fills with animation the streets of the capital, and many of the passengers go to visit the Bonaire Museum (open from Monday to Friday; entrance fee), with a surprising collection of old furniture, paintings, remembrances of the colonial age, etc.

The Magic of the Sea Depths
The west coast of Bonaire is bordered with coral reefs that make this island, the best in the Caribbean for scuba diving. In fact, the waters surrounding this island form part of the Marine Park of Bonaire, a marine park that since 1978 is dedicated to the preservation of submarine life, that takes place in the depths of this sea. Also is part of Klein Bonaire Park, a desert island west of the Kralendijk harbor. It’s completely forbidden diving with harpoons. Likewise, it is illegal to uproot any coral pieces, and even, to touch it.