A Modern Pirate’s Den
Though their colonial relations of past or present do not particularly affect the French zone, independent ideas have been stronger lately, especially on the Dutch side, where the ruling from The Hague and Curacao, site of the Dutch Antilles government, is unpleasant. The fact that the products sold on this island were tax free, increased tourism at a high speed, on both sides. The out of control growing spiral reached its climax at the beginning of the 1990’s, and had negative results. To stop this situation controls at customhouses have become more rigorous and, from Curacao, the island has been forced to apply new taxes.

Thanks to tourism, many St. Martin inhabitants become rich overnight, producing the envy of the Caribbean neighbors. They are proud that many people consider their island, as a modern pirate’s den. Opinions coming out of bars and cafes, from one side or the other, agree in demanding more autonomy, without loosing economic help from Europe. An ideal solution would be that St. Martin could benefit with the best from both worlds. Many islanders are openly against the fact of being ruled from another small island. After all, almost a thousand kilometers separate St Maarten from Curacao. On the other side, Marigot and Guadeloupe are separated by five British and two Dutch islands. Marigot seems to have lost some autonomy lately, and it is believed that if St. Martin could rule themselves, they will get rid off the bureaucratic machine that impedes its political and economic activity achieving greater facilities to develop their resources.

Philipsburg, The Dutch Capital.
In 1733, a city was founded over the narrow sand strip separating Great Salt Pond from the Great harbor. This city, Philipsburg, was named after John Philips, a Scotsman that contributed decisively in the growth of St. Maarten in the early years. Sand is still present at the city. Most of the houses have plush at the door, to avoid sand entering their homes. What remains of Great Salt Pond is not worth of: stagnant waters and a long term plan to turn it into a bird refuge.

During the day, Philipsburg is a busy commercial city. The two main streets, Front Street and Back Street, run parallel, and are united by a series of narrow perpendicular routes. Both are flanked by restaurants and hotels, as well as numbers of elegant shops; don’t forget some people rank this city as “the commercial center of the Leeward islands”. In Wathey Square, something like the major square, is Courthouse, built in 1793 and still operating; there is also a book about its history, though currently is a place where people take photographs. The square is in the middle of the town, surrounded by buildings where, in the past, used to live merchants; after a careful restoration, there are now, shops, restaurants and cafes. The square, each day, is full of peddlers and tourist.

Walking by Front Street, you are immediately trapped by the charming show windows of the boutiques - Gucci, Kohinoor, Little Switzerland - offering a wide range of duty free articles. A second look discovers the splendor of the buildings where these shops are located. Around Wathey Square there are plenty of examples of the Caribbean style architecture, developed during the XVIII and XIX centuries; two floor buildings, with a shop on the first floor, rooms on the second, and stairs going up to the gallery. Unfortunately, hurricane Luis caused, in 1995, great devastation among these frail buildings.

In the small St Maarten Museum (Opened from Monday to Saturday; entrance fee), at the end of Front Street, a fascinating film shows images of the devastation caused by the hurricane. Nearby is Pasanggrahan, a white and green building, at a time the guests house of the Government, and today the oldest inn of the island. During the World War II was the residence of Queen Willhelmina and her daughter Juliana. Their suite was transformed into the Sydney Greenstreet Bar, a nice place to stop and enjoy a drink, maybe the most famous drink guavaberry (a cocktail based on rum and wild berries growing in the mountains), while watching the ships sailing to St. Barths, St. Eustatius and Saba.

Due to the fact that Philipsburg is a lineal city, crowded with cars and people, it’s very difficult to walk around. The human waves push you and is hard to find a moment of peace. Philipsburg has its back to the sea, and though little Wathey Square can’t compete with the boulevard at Marigot’s port, a great effort to give visitors a more pleasant atmosphere, is planned. New establishments are proof that Philipsburg could turn out into a warmer and friendly place.